Tune up your BATTERY

Extend your BATTERY LIFE
Protect your BATTERY from Sulfation



Includes a "Question and Answer" section. Look for The Forklift Battery Reconditioning Program. Also, an additional and very needed service for sealed batteries that are advertised as "no maintenance" batteries.
Copyright © 2006-2015 Walter H. Barrett

A special personal message to you from Walter H Barrett, President of A to Z Global Marketing, Inc. about owning your own business and your future in the battery reconditioning business: 

Dear friend and future business associate, 
   I started reconditioning batteries for a business in 1985 after at age 52, I was down-sized from my job. I decided right then that this would be the last time anyone ever down-sized me, but I still needed to make a living.  I took control of my own future and my own life that day and I never looked back! That was the day I finally realized that no one in this world really cared that I was a veteran, or that I had a large family to support, or that I was an honest and loyal hard working employee. What I really mean to say is that I finally realized I was just a number--as long as I  worked for anyone else! That was the day I finally took control of my own destiny!
   By accepting this digital copy of our manual alone or with our sample kit, you are saving yourself thousand of dollars through our offer. You now have a chance with virtually no investment to find out if the battery reconditioning business is the thing you really want to do either full or part time. You will save the most money by purchasing the battery chargers, voltmeter and hydrometer locally at your automotive supply store. We are only interested in selling our Battery Chem™ battery treatment chemicals. Please feel free to write us at batterychem@aol.com any time with your questions. We prefer e-mail; no phone calls please.
   If you read this manual and follow our testing procedures etc., you can make money in this business. I did it personally for several years before making enough money to start our famous China Depot web site www.chinadepot.com. Don't waste your money on expensive "get rich schemes"; try our sample kit first. It is only $19.95 (to USA residences--contact us for international rates). That is a small price to pay for your own business, for your own future--so that you don't end up just a number on some bean counter's layoff list!
Good luck in your new business and be careful!


Walter H. Barrett, President
A to Z Global Marketing, Inc.

Please click for Walter Barrett Bio and China Depot history.


The Battery Chem™ Battery Treatment and Battery Rejuvenation Marketing Program


Walt Barrett

Many of our dealers, when they are first starting out, have called and asked us for marketing advice.  In an effort to save time, I am putting my methods all down here.  I am just going to list them to make it simple, as each item is self-explanatory:

  1. You need to have a big mouth! Tell everyone you meet about your new business.
  2. Make up a couple of hundred business cards with your name, e-mail, web site, phone number and what your business offers.  Some web sites are offering 200 cards free as a promotional item. Search them out.
  3. There is free or low cost classified ad-space available in the local shoppers’ guides.  Keep your ads in them.
  4. Put your business cards on all of the bulletin boards everywhere in your area.  There is usually one in every supermarket.
  5. Advertise your services on all of the free Internet ad sites like www.craigslist.org and www.superads.com. They both have sections for each state and for other countries now too. There are many other free classified ad-spaces available online as well. Search them out
  6. Used car dealers are always huge battery clients for us.
  7. Leave your business cards everywhere you can.
  8. Try to make contacts in the poorer section of town where people can't afford to pay for expensive new batteries.
  9. Go to golf courses and talk to the person in charge of servicing the golf carts. 
  10. Get the word out to people that own forklifts or any other kind of equipment that uses lead acid batteries. 
  11. Remind everyone you talk to that the sealed type of lead acid batteries must be opened up and checked if they are the type with water in them. We have salvaged many by simply boring into them, and adding our chemicals and distilled water. Use our special stop drill and reusable sealing plugs.
  12. Batteries are used everywhere; talk to people. If you have a favorite pub you can tell everyone there. You have to go after business-- it doesn't always come to you.  In general, you have to tell everyone what you are doing. 
  13. Always offer the 12 month prorated warranty to replace the battery with another and give credit for the remaining time. Always insist on the defective battery back so you can sell it for scrap. 
  14. Check everywhere for the best scrap battery prices. The battery manufacture’s local warehouse will usually pay the most. We use DEKA, and Interstate Battery.  Call them and check.
  15. Marketing is all common sense. You have to get your message out to the most people for the least amount of money.
  16. Running a business is a lot different than working a job for someone else.  When you work for a company, they do most of the thinking and “they take care of you”, so to speak, so that all you have to do is show up every day. They never ask you to make big decisions, and you do not have to come up with the weekly payroll either. Well, in your own small business, you usually have to do everything yourself, unless you can afford a helper.

            So this is a new adventure for many of you.

             Good Luck with your new business!          


             © 2010 Walt Barrett  


An Important Message From Walt Barrett about The Battery Chem™ Forklift Battery Reconditioning Program

    Some of our dealers have said that they could not get enough used automotive batteries to recondition. Well, we have a solution to that problem: Electric Forklift Batteries; there are thousands of them in every state. Last year, we had a client come to us with three very large electric forklift batteries that were in terrible condition and also very old. They had sat in a very cold warehouse for three years.
They were nearly dried out inside but still read 36 volts each. The cells would not pass a load test, though. We decided to recondition them anyway as a test and follow up by checking periodically with the owner. We started by adding the missing water from the cells and then we added one cup of Battery Chem™ per cell. After that we gave them a full charging session and put them into service. I was very doubtful myself as to the outcome, but to my surprise they have been working perfectly now for over a year. The owner of these batteries is very happy with us and our product because we have saved him a total of nearly $20,000 in replacement costs for the three batteries.

The point I want to make here is that there are thousands of electric forklifts all over the USA in warehouses and most of them are terribly neglected. Because of this we have expanded our company and also have a new forklift service training film and manual for our regular and new dealers and they describe the entire forklift battery reconditioning process. As usual, if you contact us we will train you 100% free and sell you Battery Chem™ as needed. We will also show you how easy it is to get these new forklift clients and where to find them. We have a great new free program lined up for you. Our dealers are charging $500 per battery to recondition them and offer an additional service contract for $100 a service call. Believe me, at easily $7,000 replacement cost these companies should be glad to see you. If you work hard and do the marketing program you can make a very good living servicing forklift batteries.


We did the battery shown in the training film at the right in under fifteen minutes (click picture to watch the video). You do them on site and use their charger. If you are interested in this free information please contact me at: batterychem@aol.com

Walt Barrett President
A to Z global Marketing Inc.
Battery Chem™ USA
An American Company





Battery Maintenance Service Plan

(Use this plan when servicing your customer's forklift batteries.)

Free Forklift Battery Servicing & Reconditioning Manual

Battery Rejuvenation and Reselling Manual


Copy and print this form for servicing customer's batteries

Battery Chem is now sold in bulk World Wide


 Here is an additional new moneymaking service from Walt

You know, years ago I discovered by opening up dead sealed batteries and checking inside, that they were sometimes low on water. Now everyone thinks that sealed batteries do not need distilled water added, but I have found from checking dead sealed batteries on our own vehicles, that it just isn’t true.  I propose that you start a service doing preventative maintenance on sealed batteries that would consist of the following steps:

1. Remove the battery from the vehicle and clean it thoroughly, including the posts and cable ends.

2. Place the battery on a test bench in dim light and shine a bright extension light on the rear long side of the battery. When you do this, you will be able to see the fluid levels inside of most batteries. If the fluid is low, proceed to step 3.

3. Using our special stop drill, you will bore a ½ inch hole into each cell using the dividing lines on the top of the battery as a guide. Add a tablespoon of our dry chemical formula to each cell and then top off each cell with distilled water. NEVER USE TAP WATER! (see our video below on reconditioning sealed batteries for more info) 

4. Place one of our specially provided sealing caps in each ½ inch hole you bored and seal the battery up. Now in the future you can easily check the water levels and service the battery without removing it from the vehicle.

5. Place the battery back in the vehicle; make sure the battery connections are clean and shiny and put them back.

6. Make sure the battery is bolted securely in place using the hardware provided.

7. Charge the customer fairly for your labor and materials. Remind them to come back every two months for a quick health check up on their batteries and ask about their other vehicles and equipment. Also remind them how expensive new batteries are. Never use any other chemical additives no matter what you hear or read. There are no miracle products and not all batteries can be recovered. When the paste falls off of the plates, the battery is junk –Period. Never spend thousands of dollars to get into this business; only a shoestring budget is needed and anyone can get in and do it! Now, keep reading below for the full training program and be sure to watch our videos posted on YouTube


Click to See Video Instructions Click to See Testimonials

Battery Restoration Manual 
Please read this manual several times. There is a lot of information here that you need to know to restore and resell car batteries.


Battery Chem™ Dosage per Battery Cell

6 Volt 12 Volt Forklift battery
2 tbs 1 tbs 1 cup


WARNING!!! Make sure that you comply with all of the local and Federal EPA regulations pertaining to shipping, handling, and disposing of batteries.
Please read this text completely before attempting to recondition any batteries. Battery acid is dangerous and can burn you or blind you, and can ruin your clothing. You must wear approved protective safety glasses with front and side protection or a full-face shield is preferable. You must also wear protective clothing. The gas from charging batteries can explode if exposed to sparks, or flames etc. Don’t light matches etc or smoke or make sparks.
When changing batteries always take the ground –negative cable off first and put it back on the new replacement battery last. This way you don’t make sparks and blow yourself up!

Most individuals are unaware of how car batteries actually work. The process is quite simple. Every year, millions of car batteries are removed from cars. Many of these batteries were simply run down through use (sulfation). Reconditioning is the answer for most of these batteries, further saving time and money for customers. In many instances, a good battery is removed by mistake. The customer may have another problem: faulty alternator, loose alternator belt, loose cable connections, badly corroded terminal posts, etc. These batteries may only need cleaning and perhaps a small charge. This manual is filled with the knowledge I have gained through first hand experience and hard work. The information you will be read herein is not only the complete reconditioning process itself, but pages of extremely helpful information you won’t find printed anywhere else. I want you to succeed in this highly profitable business. I have and so can you!


   The Quick Battery Condition Check


Walt Barrett  

If you have a sealed battery and want to do a quick condition check on it, you can start just by measuring the voltage from positive (+) to Negative (–). If it reads 12 volts, (or whatever the battery is rated at like 6 , 12, 24, 36, or 48 volts),  you have the best indication that the battery is not shorted inside between the cells. The next thing to do is to load test the battery to get an idea of the condition. If the battery is very old and does poorly on the load test, it is probably no good. However, it could also just be low on water. Sealed batteries are not really sealed and they can get very low on water. If you don’t have time, you may want to put it aside. When you get chance, bore into the cells and check the water. If it is below the top of the plate then add distilled water, leaving room for our chemicals and put the battery on a high charge for at least thirty (30) minutes. If after that it does not show any signs of improvement, I would say it is junk.  

   In the case of the batteries with removable caps on them, check for the voltage, load test the battery and check the water, which is much easier. Follow the same procedures as above. Very old batteries do not usually come back. If a cell is destroyed you cannot save the battery unless you know how to replace cells like the old timers did. Personally, I don't want to be bothered, but it is still common practice in the third world. It is much harder to replace a cell on a sealed battery because if the extra water collection tray inside. I do not like the engineering on sealed batteries at all because after all, they are vented (valve regulated) so that gas, etc. can escape and they do lose water.

Overcharging can cause this and is always going to be a problem, because not all charging systems are perfect. That is why it is important to check the battery levels at least once a month. You better believe it!

   You can offer people with older sealed batteries to bore them and service them before they fail totally.

Some batteries can be checked in a darkened area by placing them on the workbench and holding a bright light in back of them. On some models you can see the plates and water levels in the cells. 

Good luck with your new business.  


© 2010 Walt Barrett


Battery reconditioning is a process used to remove sulfation in an attempt to return a battery to its proper voltage and correct amperage output.
Slow charging of batteries accomplishes the reconditioning process over a period of hours at certain amperages. Please remember this – there is absolutely nothing difficult involved. However, not all batteries will recondition. Most of these bad batteries can be eliminated at the very start. 

Sulfating happens during the normal operation of a battery. When you start your car, the acid (electrolyte) is activated between the battery plates. This creates energy. During this period, some of the acid changes from a liquid state into a crystallized state. Over a long period of time, not all the crystallized acid is removed totally. It is this buildup of crystallized acid between the battery plates, which will cause a battery to become weak, and it fails to function properly. It is this “trapped” acid that needs to be broken down and returned to a liquid state. Reconditioning accomplishes the process at hand.

Once you determine that a battery is reusable you must add one tablespoon of our product to each cell. This will help to dissolve the acid crystals. ONLY USE THE ADDITIVE AFTER YOU HAVE PERFORMED ALL OF THE DEAD CELL TESTS BELOW. THE ADDITIVE WILL NOT RESTORE TOTALLY DEAD CELLS EVER! One quart of our dry powder additive should be enough to do approximately ten batteries if used properly. Battery additives will help in removing sulfation and at the same time give the battery a longer life. A very important item we use to immediately detect and eliminate those batteries that have dead or shorted cells is the 12-volt test meter. There are several other pieces of equipment that we consider essential to properly recondition and test your batteries. See our free catalog.
Please note: We have continuously found that after we add our chemicals and recharge the batteries further testing of the reconditioned units shows that the specific gravity and cranking amps continues to improve. And with successive charging during usage they improve even more.
I have recently built an experimental equalizer battery charger and tested it on a 1999 battery that was not showing improvement. It had been sitting on the shelf in our shop for at least two years. Two hours of low 16 volt charging has brought this seven-year-old battery back to life. You have to be careful not to overheat the battery by too much boiling. If you wish to try one of these equalizer chargers they are hand made here in the USA and are $99.00 each plus shipping. You will still need the regular chargers too.
LONG TERM TESTING IS NOW PROVING THAT BATTERIES EVEN IN VERY POOR CONDITION, BUT NOT HAVING ANY DEAD CELLS ARE GETTING STRONGER WHILE JUST SITTING WITH OUR ADDITIVE IN THEM. HOWEVER IT IS IMPORTANT TO GIVE THEM A SLOW CHARGE EVERY OTHER WEEK. We already knew that our additive slowly improves the batteries in cars that are being driven daily. This is true because the additive continues to dissolve and prevent the formation of acid crystals.
It is a good idea to use our additives on perfectly good batteries to extend their life.
1. Slow battery charger or series charger for large operations charging several batteries at one time.
2. 30 amp quick charger for quick twenty-minute jolts.
3. Battery load tester -- very simple to use, it is color coded
4. Battery Hydrometer -- very simple to learn, It is color coded
Cables and testing equipment for resale may be purchased from Us. New batteries may be purchased from your local battery wholesaler warehouse. Locally we use Deka Batteries. The profit margin is excellent and they supply you with all of the necessary catalogs.
You may want an equalizer charger for very stubborn batteries. 

What You Get:

ALL for only

$1,489.00 Plus Shipping 

1 6/12 Volt Battery Charger/Starter 
1 six-station multiple battery desulfating - maintainer charger 
1 set eye protection safety glasses 
1 Battery Load tester 100 amps
1 Hydrometer
1 Battery filler
1 Battery post cleaner 
1 Volt Meter
1 pair of cell testing probes with clips for voltmeter
1 Half inch Funnel 
1 Half inch diameter stop drill for safely boring holes in sealed batteries 
1 Battery Manual on CD-ROM
5 Gallons of Battery Chem™ Battery Treatment
240 caps



Since batteries do produce explosive gasses, caution should be taken. Never work with an open flame near a battery. When repairing a hole or crack in a battery case we use a soldering iron – no flame. A hot glue gun is the best way to seal cracks in batteries. This is explained in the manual. Wear goggles to protect your eyes and remove rings, watches, etc. Should you get any acid on you, wash off immediately with water.

Lets assume that you know very little about batteries at this point. You have purchased 20 to 30 from a local service station. These have been bought “as is.” You don’t know what you have. You don’t know if some have dead cells, dry cells, shorted cells, are too old, possibly damaged, etc. These batteries will have to be tested. First of all, if the battery does not read at least 12 volts to begin with there is a very good chance it has a dead cell if reading 10 or less volts. If you wish to test further, do the following steps.

Step 1: 
When testing batteries, first use the 12-volt test meter. Test each cell to assure conductivity, and no “dead” cells. Start by removing all battery caps or lids. Lets assume that you are beginning this first test with a top post battery. Using a 12-volt test meter, hold the one stationary prod on top of the positive post and put the other prod into the first cell. Don’t push the prod way down and into the plates. It just needs to touch the liquid. If you get a 2-volt reading, proceed to the next cell, putting one prod into the first cell and the other prod into the second cell. Always go from left to right. Start in this order: positive post – first cell, first cell – second cell, second cell – third cell, third cell – fourth cell, fourth cell - fifth cell, fifth cell – sixth cell. If you get a 2-volt reading on all cells, hold this battery aside for the next step. If any cell does not produce a 2-volt reading put it on the junk pile. It will not recondition as these particular cells are dead or on their way. 

Step 2: 
Next, use a low cost, 6/12 volt 10 amp fast battery charger. Hook it up to a battery that passed the 2-volt cell test. If the meter hand moves quickly up to at least 1/3 to ½ the dial capacity, proceed to step 3. If you have a battery that gives you a 2-volt reading on the first cell and nothing on the others, this usually means that you have a battery without enough charge in it for this particular test. In this case, hook it up to your 6/12-volt charger for a few minutes. Leaving hooked up, again take your 2-volt cell tester and test all cells again. If they now give you a 2-volt reading each, this battery will probably recondition. If any cells should give a reading way past the 2-volt mark, put this battery in the junk pile. An excessive reading usually indicates a shorted cell.

Step 3:  
Take all batteries that have passed the prior tests add one tablespoon of the chemical to each cell and make sure that the tops of all plates in each cell are covered over with liquid. If any appear low, add some distilled water. Do not add acid! The use of hydrometer for adding water works well. NEVER USE TAP WATER IN A BATTERY. IT CAN SEVERELY SHORTEN THE LIFE OF THE BATTERY.

Step 4:  
Using a 6/8 amp multiple slow charger hook up batteries in a series. Use some charging cables for this purpose. The making of charging cables is explained further down the page. To avoid confusion and any errors in hooking up a series of batteries, it is a good idea to turn each battery in the same direction. You can also charge 6-volt batteries along with 12 volt ones, just as long as the total volts hooked together don’t exceed the charger capacity rating. 
· Charging cables can easily be made using scraps of good heavy gauge wire and some alligator type clamps. Electrical wire scraps can be obtained from an electrical contractor or ask the foreman at any new building site. The alligator type clamps can be bought from most auto supply parts stores. We recommend this type of charging cables over all the rest. They are fast to hook up and hard to accidentally knock loose. The pin will work OK, but they get dull eventually and excess hammering them into the battery post tops will sometimes result in cracking the plastic case around the post or even damaging some internal parts of the battery.
· To hook up side post batteries, charging posts are needed. These are cone shaped lead plugs with a threaded bolt imbedded in the lead. Screw these into the side posts. Then, simply snap on your charging cables as you would to a top post battery.

Step 5:  
Turn on your charger until the hand indicator reaches between 5 and 6 amps. Watch it closely for about 10 minutes and don’t allow the hand to exceed past 6 amps. You could blow a fuse. During the next hour, check often. Most of the time the hand will slowly continue to fall back to 5 amps for a while. Adjust to maintain 5 ½ amps. Special Notice: If at this point you should observe that the indicator needle hand on your charger is nervous it usually means one of the following:

1. You forgot to add water to sufficiently cover the top of the plates in one battery. Turn off charger and correct this. 
2. A shorted cell you failed to catch when testing. In this case one of the charging cable ends will get real hot. Turn off charger and remove this battery. Replace with another.
3. Check all connections. There could be a loose clamp or perhaps you forgot to tighten up a charging post.

Step 6:  
After 24 hours of slow charging, reduce the amperage so that the hand now reads between 4 and 5 amps. Look into the cells of each battery. If the fluid level has fallen very low add some distilled water with your hydrometer. Charge for another 24 hours.

Step 7: 
After the second 24-hour charging period, turn off your charger. Remove the charging cables and set these batteries aside to cool for another 24-hour period. Now – hook another bunch of batteries you have tested and repeat steps 3 through 7.

After the 24-hour cooling period, your batteries are now ready to test for proper voltage and amperage ratings. Using a voltage and amperage tester, test each battery as follows: Hook the red clamp to the positive post and the black clamp to the negative post. Look at the voltage reading. It should read 12.4 volts or right at it. A fully charged battery in good condition will read 12.4 volts. Lets say you only get a 10-volt reading. This means that one cell went bad during the charging process. Put it in the junk pile. Since a six cell, 12 volt battery should produce at least 12 volts this simply means each cell should produce 2 volts. 
Lets say, a battery shows “cold crank amps – 300” and your test only produces a 275 amp reading. Don’t throw it away. It simply means that this particular battery was very heavily sulfated to start with and that the reconditioning process did not completely remove all of it. You can still sell this battery. Many customers need only a 275-amp battery. Most cars with a 4-cylinder engine require a low amp battery. Reduce your price and sell it with no guarantee--and, don’t think that you can’t sell these. Just tell the customer that you can guarantee this battery will start his car – but for how long you cannot determine. Many times you will have a customer wanting a battery just good enough to start his car since he plans on selling it right away. Also, it could improve after several days of charging and recharging on the car etc. Our golf cart customers tell us the driving distance improves with each charging; it is the conditioner working. A battery that tests a little low will improve with successive charging if you have our additive in it. The additive will help to dissolve more acid crystals that have built up on the battery plates.

First, look into each cell and top off with additional water if needed. Then, put the caps back on tight. Using a wood rasp, run it across the top of each post. This will remove any roughness and give a nice clean flat look. Then, using a good battery post cleaner (one with metal blades), run it down and turn around each post several times to even out each post, leaving a clean look. Don’t make the mistake of using a cheap wire battery post cleaner. Now, you are ready to wash each battery. The best and most economical cleaner, and the only one you will need are kerosene. Also, purchase a good, round wheel brush with a wooden or plastic handle and stiff 2 inch long nylon bristles. Pour a few inches of kerosene into a 1 gallon plastic bucket with a wide-open top. Dip the scrub brush into the kerosene and briskly scrub the top and sides of the battery. Next, take a garden hose and attach an adjustable nozzle. Turn on the water and slowly open the nozzle until you get a hard fast spray. Go over and around the top and sides of the battery. Tilt the battery and spray under it. The use of a square, waist high wash pit using a small wooden turn table to place a single dirty battery upon makes the wash operation easy and fast. You can make your own wash pit and turntable.

Next, your washed batteries will need to be dried off. First, get some newspapers. Lay these (several sheets thick) on a table and then set each washed battery on top of these papers. Next, get some hand wash towels. Remove the battery lids and wash them off in your wash pit. Take a couple of sheets of paper towels and wipe off the top of the battery. The fluid on the top of the battery under the lids will be greasy and you don’t want this in your dry cloth towel. Throw away this paper towel, take your dry cloth and proceed to wipe dry each battery side and around the terminal tops. Shake out the battery lids, wipe dry and re-apply to battery. The battery will look like new. Lastly, wash out all cloth towels immediately with water and hang them on a line to dry. 

Your washed and dried batteries are now ready to number. Sets of small metal number dies are needed for this purpose. These are not expensive and can usually be purchased from any hardware store. You can start your numbering system beginning with #1 or #100 or whatever you choose. We stamp numbers on our batteries in two places. Place one on top of the positive post and the other into the top of the plastic case near the positive post and next to the edge of the battery case. Don’t hammer in hard, because you could crack the plastic. The reason for numbering each battery is so you can issue each customer an individual guarantee with his/her battery. The battery number should be written on each sales invoice and guarantee slip. Stamping the date of purchase on top of each battery is not necessary. Also, the customer should bring to you his/her sales invoice and guarantee slip so that you can immediately see when it was purchased. 

A company label with the month of purchase punched out and the year should be applied to the top of each battery. Put the labels on before the sale is made because this makes your reconditioned batteries look more professional. Place your label over any guarantee that might already be on the battery. This prevents the customer from seeing the original age of the battery and also from confusing him/her as to your guarantee. 

After labeling, again hook up your load tester and see what cold crank amps your reconditioned battery is now producing. Write this in small letters on your company label for quick reference. You have now classified this battery and are ready to place it on your “selling table.” No further testing will be necessary.

Some people in this business suggest that you can guarantee your reconditioned batteries for a period of 12 months. This is fine for most batteries and we also endorse this policy. What some people don’t tell and explain are the exceptions. There will be times we feel your guarantee period should definitely be handled in a different way. We give only a 90-day guarantee period on batteries that are used “off the road”. This applies to tractor batteries (usually 6 volt) and marine (boat) batteries. These type batteries are mostly “seasonal” and are being sold and used usually during summer months only. They do not get constant day-to-day charging. Lawnmower batteries also fall in this category. We have had very poor luck in being able to recondition lawnmower or motorcycle batteries and no longer try it. “Off the road” type batteries are seldom used during the winter months and it is the “dead” time that does them no good. Any sulfating will tend to harden during this in-active period. So a 90-day guarantee for off the road batteries should protect you from having many returns. You will also find that a simple explanation such as: “Off the road batteries do not get charged often enough as would batteries used in cars driven daily” will be acceptable to most.

You will have some batteries you reconditioned that upon testing do not produce at least a 300-amp reading. These will usually be batteries that are not very heavy, 2-year type, some foreign batteries, small size batteries and some that the sulfating was not totally removed during the reconditioning process. You will generally have an excess of very low amperage batteries on hand and the best way to sell them is to cut the price and give no guarantee period. This is further explained under the VOLTAGE & AMPERAGE TESTING section. 

Sometimes you will get a battery that is almost new, one that there is not a thing wrong with it, amperage is fine. Perhaps the customer had an electrical problem with his car and thought he needed a new battery. This happens often! Also, you will get some practically new used batteries that may have a crack or hole in them that you can repair. These types can be sold for $3 to $5 more and give a 24-month guarantee. If we recondition a battery that is putting out high amperage (around 500 amps) and looks very new we will sell it for around $24.95 or more, and give a 12 – month pro-rated guarantee. Through experience in this business, you will better understand the proper guarantee periods to offer customers. 

When you make a sale, explain to your customer that his guarantee period is totally pro-rated. That is a term meaning equal amount per month. If a customer paid you $24.95 for a battery and you gave him an 12-month guarantee, then it only cost him $2.08 per month to use this battery ($24.95 divided by 12=$2.08).

You will have some batteries that fail before the end of your warranty period the customer returns for an adjustment. Any battery, even a new one can go bad by developing a dead or shorted cell at any time. This is the usual case 99% of the time. Explain this fact to the customer. State that you are very sorry this may have happened and inconvenienced him, that you will check his battery right away to determine the problem. You will find that being sincere and honest will build your business fast. A pleasant attitude will create an honest impression. Customer talks and word of mouth advertising is priceless. 
Once you have determined that the battery you sold the customer is defective, proceed to make an adjustment. Ask for the customer’s warranty slip you furnished to him when he originally bought the battery. A sample slip that you can copy and use is shown below. This slip will show the date of purchase and also show you the battery number. If the customer has lost his slip you can do this – Observe the battery number that you stamped on top of the positive post (top post battery only) and (or) on the case top in front of the positive post. Go through your sales invoice copies and look for his name and match it to the battery number written on the same invoice copy. At no time do you suggest a refund. The customer needs another battery and if you have been polite--as you should have, he probably will not want a refund. 

Find another reconditioned battery that meets his car amperage requirement and make the adjustment as follows: Let’s assume that today is May 3, 2005 and your customer bought his battery on June 1, 2004 (Inv. No. XX – Battery No. XX). He paid you $24.95 plus tax for it and received a 12-month guarantee.  Your customer has used this battery for 11 months and 2 days. (Forget the odd days; always give a fair adjustment. Your customer will remember this.) Since you originally issued an 12-month guarantee, then you owe him a 1-month credit for unused time (12 month guarantee less 11 months used = 1 month credit). Write up this adjustment as shown. Your customer clearly sees exactly what has happened and understands how he received the adjustment. Collect his $22.88 and give him a new guarantee slip dated May 3, 2005. He is ready to start over again with another reconditioned battery and another 12-month guarantee. 
If one of our reconditioned batteries truly fails within 30 days of use, we replace it free of charge. However, remember to leave the date alone on his guarantee slip – just mark through and write in the new battery number. You should never change the date. The customer has had use of the first battery for one month at no charge. The customer should not ask for a date change because he has lost nothing but a little time and convenience. Important – If customer returns within another few days or a couple of weeks and tells you that this battery also failed, give him a refund. More than likely this customer has an electrical problem or dragged starter that has ruined the battery and how won’t admit it. Beware – some people will batter you to death before they will spend time and money to have other problems corrected. Don’t ever argue with any customer. His “word of mouth” can hurt you. If he is in the wrong, his friend will usually know it and what he might say will not hurt your business. Sometimes the customer will tell you that they believe they do have an electrical problem. In this case go ahead and sell them a battery but do not give him a guarantee. If they will take it this way, fine. However, you can tell them that if they will have their problem corrected within two days, return and show you proof showing replaced starter or a found short in the electrical system or some other problem which is now corrected that you will then give them a guarantee slip. You absolutely don’t want to appear hard to get along with, but stand up for your rights when you are right. Battery reconditioning is not real easy work and you are not in this business just for the exercise. 

At the present time, in this area, the price being paid for used batteries ranges from $.50 to $4.00 each. This price level will vary depending on the lead market. There are four main ways to purchase used batteries:
(1) Buy them from the public using daily advertising purchase price.
(2) Buy them from stores, service stations, etc., that sell batteries, using one of the following methods:
(A) Buy them all at a certain price per battery.
(B) Just pick out the ones that you feel stand at a high chance of being reconditioned and leave the rest. Also, pay a little more for these selected ones.
(C) Exchange deal. Leave a battery that you know is no good in exchange for each one you select and pay an agreed amount per battery.

Always wear protective gear.
When working with batteries it is practically impossible to keep some drops of acid from getting on your clothing. Acid will eat holes in most clothes in short order. The best, and most comfortable working clothes we use are jump suits. Acid will not eat through synthetic materials. Polyester/Cotton clothing is ideal for this purpose. Jump suits can be purchased rather inexpensively from large discount stores. Shop uniforms are attractive.

Many of these repairs can be made with a hot glue gun. If not, use the following methods.
Minor holes and cracks can be easily repaired using a #2 soldering iron. This is the heavy-duty type (1 1/4 lbs.) 15-inch variety obtained from most any plumbing supply house. You will also need a 20 lb. Propane gas tank fitted with a top burner. Or, you can use a torch to heat the iron. It must be almost red hot when properly ready to use. 
I avoid using a torch around batteries, just as a safety factor. Use of any flame is very dangerous.
Cut up some old battery cases into small pieces. These plastic scraps are what you will be using as a sealer. Since battery cases come in a variety of colors, always use the same color plastic when repairing holes or cracks. Also, there are different kinds of plastic cases. Match the same type for each repair job. If you don’t, you will find some plastics not melting or blending in with another different type or consistency. 
Before repairing a hole or crack, first clean the damaged area. The tilt the battery until the inside fluid has moved away from the hole or crack you want to work on. A few scrap wooden blocks are useful to prop up the battery so you can have both hands free. 
To repair a crack:
Take the hot soldering iron. Using the pointed end, lightly touch the beginning of the crack until it begins to melt. Slowly follow the cracked seam to the other end of the crack. Then quickly take some matching type plastic scraps and lay them over them over the entire length of the crack. Hold the flat surface side of your soldering iron over these scraps until they melt, filling the seam. Practice will teach you about how long to apply the iron. Allow the repaired surface are to thoroughly cool. Return the battery to a position whereby the acid is now, back in contact with the repaired area. Put a piece of paper under this battery. After about an hour pick up the battery and examine the paper for any tell tale signs of a wet spot. 
To repair a hole:
Cut a small plastic scrap just a little larger than the hole. Lay this scrap over the hole. Take the pointed end of your hot soldering iron and apply it around all sides of the scrap until the edges have melted into the surrounding plastics. Test for any leakage as described above. As you work with the soldering iron you will learn how to smooth out any rough edges to make the repair area look more neat and professional. You will find many batteries that only need a minor plastic repair job to put them back in service. 
Should a customer bring you a battery that is a candidate for the above treatment, repair it and charge him your hourly rate plus materials.

After a customer has been lured to your business, the very worst that can happen is for him to leave without making a purchase. He has come because he likes your price and guarantee. The time will come when you don’t have a particular type battery that the customer needs. I have found it best to do the following. If you will have that group size he needs, ready in a couple of days, ask if he can wait. Tell him you will save it for him. Get his name and phone number and a deposit and tell him you will call him when the battery is ready. Just the fact that you save him a battery right away makes him feel important. 

Most lids are removed, some are constructed so as to appear that they can’t be removed and some cannot be removed without usually cracking them in trying. Raised type lids are removed with a screwdriver and with little effort. Batteries with strip lids can also be removed with a screwdriver. Some of this type will be labeled “maintenance free”. And, some even have plugs under the lids but they will come out with a little screwdriver effort. Some have caps that are slotted. These are removed, again with a screwdriver. Batteries in some of the newer automobiles have rectangular shaped lids that are not removable. But, don’t fret – there is a way to get in. Also, one thing to remember is that batteries are not “airtight”. If so, they could blow up. There are little breather slots in the lids or at the corner of the battery to let out normally produced gasses from time to time.
Remember too – “maintenance free” batteries had better maintained if at all possible. By this we mean, when the fluid level drops below the battery plate tops, trouble is on the way. And, add water to this battery. 

You can purchase our special plugs and use a stop drill to avoid damaging the battery plates when you drill the holes into the top of each cell, or, you can do the following. Personally we prefer the plugs because it makes it much easier to check the water levels in the batteries.
The first step is to purchase a small metal punch with a sharp tapered end. Then, peel off the labels on the top of the battery lids. Inserting a knife blade under one corner of the label can do this. As soon as you have curled up enough of the label to grasp with your thumb and adjacent finger, just simply peel the label off. Underneath, you will then see the circular outline of a hole in the plastic directly above each cell. Using a hammer, drive your punch right through the middle of each circular outline. Don’t go too deep or you could hit and damage the plates. Just make the hole wide enough so that you can insert the prod on your 2-volt tester. Test each cell, as you would do to any top post battery. Some sealed lids have a circular (green eyed plug) in them. This is easily be removed by driving a flat head screwdriver into and below the top and prying out this plug. It can later be hammered back in. Some advise you to drill out holes in the tops and later use excess battery caps to plug them shut. We have found this to be time consuming and you never seem to get these caps to stay on tight or in a neat straight row. We have a solution for this. After you have punched the holes and the battery tests OK, with the 2-volt tester, proceed to recondition. If you need to add water to any cells, use your hydrometer for this purpose. The tip end will go over the holes enough for you to “squeeze in” the water. If this battery reconditions, clean it and wipe it dry. Be careful when scrubbing the top, not to use too much kerosene.
Now to seal back the tops – 
First, you can plug the large hole by taking this same plug and just hammering it back in. As for then sealing the other holes, we use a self-adhesive film. Put a piece of this film across each battery top and trim off the excess. We use a single edge razor blade and ruler edge for making a straight cut. Press the film down firmly all the way to the edge of the lids. The small holes will show through the film, but so what. You can then place your label over one of these lids if you prefer and leave the other lid as is. You can tell them if you want, that the holes were necessary in order to properly chemically treat the battery as part of your reconditioning process. You then create a mysterious era about your work without revealing what you are actually doing. 

After you have reconditioned, cleaned, numbered, labeled and determined the cold crank amperage of each battery, they are now ready to display. We move ours to the front room of our building and arrange them neatly by group size on a long table. From left to right, we begin with group 24 batteries, and then group 74. Next is group 22, 72, 27, 77 and then Volkswagen batteries (group 42), followed by any odd sizes and finally any 6-volt batteries we have reconditioned. This arrangement makes a neat and orderly display.

As you know by now, not all batteries can be reconditioned. First, customer’s battery will have to be checked as to age and condition. You can immediately rule out his battery if your 2-volt cell tester shows a dead cell. If his battery passes all of the other tests do try and recondition it, but inform your customer that even after you have reconditioned his battery it may not produce the correct amperage output. I always charge a customer the same price if his battery does recondition properly as I would for one of my reconditioned batteries. There would be no charge for a battery that you can’t recondition. This customer will more than likely buy one of your batteries anyway if his doesn’t recondition. And, he will appreciate your efforts in trying to save his battery because it has cost him nothing. Always show the customer why his battery failed, using a model SB-5 tester or equivalent.

These are batteries that have failed the reconditioning process, damaged or old, and some batteries you took in on exchange. In other words, batteries that are of no use to you. Usually, most junkyards or metal recycling plants buy used batteries every day. If you accumulate around 300 to 400 batteries you can usually sell them direct to the company that buys from the junkyards. This price difference can run from $ .25 to $ .50 more per battery. However, if you don’t have storage space or need a faster turnover, the junkyards are your best bet. ALWAYS FOLLOW EPA GUIDELINES WHEN HANDLING OR DISPOSING OF BATTERIES. YOU CAN CHECK WITH YOUR LOCAL MAJOR BATTERY WAREHOUSE WHOLESALE SUPPLIER. WHILE YOU ARE AT IT GET A WHOLESALE PRICE LIST FROM HIM SO YOU CAN BUY NEW BATTERIES FROM HIM AND SELL THEM TO YOU CLIENTS. Locally, we use DEKA Battery. They are on the Internet and very nice people to do business with.

You must first, take a plastic 5 gallon bucket, and pour the liquid from several batteries that you can determine would not recondition. Fill the bucket about ¾ full. This acid will be weak in specific gravity and have water in it plus impurities. Purchase a gallon of 66 degrees sulfuric acid from most chemical companies. The cost will usually run $6-$8. Slowly pour in about a quart. Stir with a wooden stick. The 5-gallon bucket will get very warm. This is o.k. Remember to handle this concentrated acid very carefully. If you should splash your skin, wash off immediately with water. Allow this mixture in the 5-gallon bucket to settle for a day. The dark impurities will sink to the bottom. Proper strength acid for adding to batteries should have a specific gravity reading of at least 1250. Using a hydrometer, take a reading of you 5-gallon bucket mixture. If it is still too low in specific gravity add a little more of the 66 degree concentrate. What you have done here is take free acid from your unusable batteries and brought it up to proper strength. Your actual cost for a gallon of acid is very low. You can sell it for $4 to $6 per gallon, easily. 

Many batteries are still being marketed with amp hour ratings. An approximate cold crank amperage rating can be figured by multiplying the amp hours by 5 and ¼ times. Example: 59 amp hours x 5 ¼ = 309.75 cold crank amps at 0 degrees F or –17.8 degrees C. Also, a close relationship can be obtained by relating a car engine’s cubic inches to cold crank amps. 

First of all, understand that it is good used batteries that you want. Batteries that are over three years old will usually not completely recondition. An easy test is to remove the caps and look into each cell. If the fluid is dark and so murky that you cannot see the tops of the plates, this type will not recondition. After you have seen hundreds of batteries you can usually tell which ones to immediately avoid. This is why a 2 volt cell tester will pay for itself hundreds of times over as it will show you immediately if a battery has a dead cell. Remember – you are reconditioning batteries, not rebuilding them. Put batteries with dead cells in your junk pile, as they cannot be reconditioned. You can make more money per man-hour reconditioning batteries than you could ever make in trying to rebuild them. Forget batteries that are labeled “2 year” batteries. They usually have not had time to go bad due to sulfating. Also, this type battery is not made up of heavy or numerous plates and when they fail, it is more than often a dead cell situation. Even if you did successfully recondition a 2-year battery, the remaining normal life left is very short. Batteries that are labeled as having a low amperage output are not worth trying to recondition. The demand for this type is not sufficient to cover your expenses. Also, these types are much lighter in weight due to thin and very few plates. 

As a rule, these types are not very durable and not worth the effort to try and recondition. However, if you get some lawnmower batteries that are around less than a year old, give them a try if they pass the usual preliminary tests. And, charge them at a slower rate then cut off and check. 
Batteries that have just one or more cells not showing fluid over the tops of the plates should be avoided, with one exception – those that have just recently acquired a crack or hole in the case causing the acid to leak out. These can usually be repaired. How to do this is explained in this manual. Absence of fluid in any cell for any length of time is damaging to the plates. Also, avoid side post batteries that have had the posts stripped out. These can seldom be repaired since the seal is usually damaged inside the battery behind the lead slug. These will always leak and not be satisfactory. You can usually see fluid leaking at the bottom of the post. If you cannot find a hole or crack in the case on any battery showing little or no fluid in any of the cells, forget these for reconditioning. In this instance a dry cell or extremely low fluid showing in any cell usually means that particular cell has had its plates overheated and boiled dry. A short can cause this. A voltage regulator set too high can also cause it.

The Battery Council International publishes a Battery Replacement Data Book listing all vehicle battery requirements and in terms of the necessary cold cranks amperage. By using the BCI book there will be no guesswork. The very worst thing you can do is selling a battery that doesn’t have the proper amperage. Just having a BCI book also makes your business look more professional and convinces the customer that he has been served correctly.

I usually try to avoid this and suggest that you display a sign inside your shop above your batteries reading: ALL SALES CASH & CARRY. INSTALLATION SERVICE $10.00 EXTRA. It usually does not take more than 10 minutes to change one and the extra cash is nice. If you are busy or have no helper at the time, and would have to cause another customer to wait, you may never want to start this. It is up to you. Just having the above worded sign on display lets the customer know that he cannot expect you to install a battery free of charge. Very few battery shops install batteries free. If they do, you can bet that they charged enough for the battery they sold to cover the labor to install it. Remember – you are operating a discount type store anyway. Most of your customers have come to you because of the attractive prices and the nice guarantee. They should not even expect you to provide free installation. However, there will be exceptions – such as: a physically handicapped person or a lady customer. In either case, it is better to install the battery at no charge than possibly lose the sale.

Here is an additional new moneymaking service from Walt

You know, years ago I discovered by opening up dead sealed batteries and checking inside, that they were sometimes low on water. Now everyone thinks that sealed batteries do not need distilled water added, but I have found from checking dead sealed batteries on our own vehicles, that it just isn’t true.  I propose that you start a service doing preventative maintenance on sealed batteries that would consist of the following steps:

1. Remove the battery from the vehicle and clean it thoroughly, including the posts and cable ends.

2. Place the battery on a test bench in dim light and shine a bright extension light on the rear long side of the battery. When you do this, you will be able to see the fluid levels inside of most batteries. If the fluid is low, proceed to step 3.

3. Using our special stop drill, you will bore a ½ inch hole into each cell using the dividing lines on the top of the battery as a guide. Add a tablespoon of our dry chemical formula to each cell and then top off each cell with distilled water. NEVER USE TAP WATER! (see our video below on reconditioning sealed batteries for more info) 

4. Place one of our specially provided sealing caps in each ½ inch hole you bored and seal the battery up. Now in the future you can easily check the water levels and service the battery without removing it from the vehicle.

5. Place the battery back in the vehicle; make sure the battery connections are clean and shiny and put them back.

6. Make sure the battery is bolted securely in place using the hardware provided.

7. Charge the customer fairly for your labor and materials. Remind them to come back every two months for a quick health check up on their batteries and ask about their other vehicles and equipment. Also remind them how expensive new batteries are. Never use any other chemical additives no matter what you hear or read. There are no miracle products and not all batteries can be recovered. When the paste falls off of the plates, the battery is junk –Period. Never spend thousands of dollars to get into this business; only a shoestring budget is needed and anyone can get in and do it! Be sure to watch our videos posted on YouTube



NOTE: If you need larger quantities please send for a quote and include your shipping address and postal code, and phone number. Write to: info@chinadepot.com


Click Each to See Our Step-By-Step Videos on
How to Test and Recondition a Battery
Required Tools

A list of the tools required to rejuvenate and recondition lead acid automotive batteries.

Step 1


Cleaning battery terminals. See required tools first.

Step 2

How to check battery cell voltages.

Step 3

Testing the individual cells of a lead acid battery.
Step 4

Load testing a battery to determine its condition.

Step 5

The Hydrometer cell test.
Step 6

Adding the chemicals for the reconditioning process.

Reconditioning Sealed Batteries

Sealed batteries require an additional step before they can be tested for reconditioning. Refer back to our other battery videos for all the steps. Here's what you do...






Disclaimer: READ THE MANUAL. There are no guarantees that every battery will respond to the chemical treatment. 
Battery Chem™ will not work with shorted, or totally worn out batteries.
"Our success rate as reported by users is approximately 70% of properly tested and prepared batteries, and by using Battery Chem™ the users automatically release the manufacturers 
and distributors of Battery Chem™ from any and all liabilities including any injuries suffered from improper use of the product, or use by untrained persons, or personnel."


"We are using your rejuvenator Chem powder. it has been working fine. We recovered some units and additionally stopped wasting energy. Thanks!" 

Jose Pedro Montalvo 
Electrical Engineering Manager at Fabricas Monterrey 

July, 2014


I’m 86, been around a long time, heard a lot of stories, some fact most fiction.
I owned and drove my own midget race car for 12 years. I purchased it from Kurtis Kraft. (see photo) . This was 1951-1963.
I’m writing this to tell all of you, if you go to the auto parts store for a battery, be ready to pay $80.00 to $120.00. 
Here are the facts, not fiction. My Lincoln Town Car battery gave up (so I thought) after 4 years, I had paid $55.00 new for it in 2008. I went to a nationwide auto parts store (where I have a resale # and discount). The cheapest I could buy one was $84.00 and the best was $127.00. I snatched the battery out of my 1977 MKV (this is a keeper) and was back in business. I started with reading up on Edison and Tesla, (his coil) and then went to the computer and found Walt Barrett and his Web Page www.batterychem.biz.
I was crew chief on the #41 car at the Indy 500 in 1956 (see photo). I know chassis, I also know engines, and I called Walt because I knew nothing about batteries. He has a reconditioning solution and method that works!!!
I reconditioned the original battery per his video and instructions and “Bingo” my Town Car starts every morning if needed!! See photo of 1978 Modified Stock Car for “run what you bring” open comp stock car dirt. Holds track records at Cornora ½ mile & Chula Vista ½ mile.
That car, and Phantom 1, the midget I built for him, (Brad Dunham) were battery operated (ignition). See photo.

_4,phantom1stockcar001.jpg (286064 bytes) dunhamcar34001.jpg (165114 bytes) dunhamcar84001.jpg (109110 bytes) larry&billyindy001.jpg (127454 bytes)

Any questions?
Larry Dunham
Email: usaclarry@yahoo.com 

October, 2013


Hi my name is Manny and I own a shipping company. In my warehouse, I use 2 forklifts and 1 power jack daily. I was having lots of problems with my forklift batteries, they weren’t charging and it got to the point that they wouldn’t even take a charge. I called a company to come and repair them. I knew I didn’t want to buy new ones because it would be too expensive. The repair man came by and tested the batteries and said they were junk, there was nothing he or anyone could do to fix them! He suggested I put my name on a waiting list for used batteries. Which even used would run me about $5200 a piece!

After contemplating my choices, I decided to go online and research other options. This is when I came across Walter Barrett’s advertisement for Battery Chem on a website. It could not hurt to call. Upon speaking to Walter Barrett and explaining the problems I was having, he told me he knew exactly what was wrong and that he would sell me the Battery Chem products to fix the batteries myself. I preferred and insisted that he do the repairs himself, since I had no experience in repairing these types of batteries.

I drove the batteries down to Walter and within a week, I received a phone call from him saying that the batteries were ready and that they were repaired with Battery Chem. I immediately installed the batteries and they ran better than they had ever run.

It’s been 2 years since the repair, and let me tell you, the batteries are still running like new. I won’t even mention the name because I don’t want to embarrass the first repair man who wanted to charge me $5200 a piece for used batteries. But I will say this I’ve never gotten a better bargain in my 20 years in business!

Thank you again,

Lowell, MA

July, 2011


I finally got around to getting that battery. This battery would not hold a charge for 5 seconds prior to this. I would let it charge on the car for an hour and it wouldn't even be able to crank it over right after you turned off the car. I put the Battery Chem you sent me in and charged it overnight. It has now been turning a 5.7 litre engine over in my Camaro now for a week and half and is working great.
I am going to look into the fork lift batteries some more. I am going to find companies that have a lot of electric fork lifts and find out what servicing they currently have, I guess if any. Do you have any tips on what to ask or how to position things with them?


July, 2011


Hi John,

I am very happy with your Battery Chem electrolyte conditioning treatment and highly recommend it to others who are looking to add more life and power to their existing batteries that they otherwise thought dead. We are saving our customers 50-75% off new prices and also saving emissions from producing new batteries. Our customers have been pleased with the product they receive and we continue to build our base of customers as some companies have been testing our product over the past year and have been buying more! We have also added to our tools with test equipment and chargers.
Our most recent customer is a large industrial warehouse that uses electric pallet jacks. Recently in for service, they were told the jack needed a new 24 volt battery @ $2,000. They gave us a call, we picked up their pallet jack and returned it 5 days later and saved them $1600 by reconditioning the battery. 2 months later the pallet jack operator has reported that the battery runs better and longer than when it was new!
I would like to thank you and Walt for mentoring us while we continue to grow Battery Repair Express.com!

Dustin Reeh

May, 2011


I'm just sending you an Email to let you know how we are getting on with your amazing product! 
I have spent the weekend doing some experimenting, and have successfully reconditioned 4 batteries, a 100% success rate! 
2 of these batteries, I was certain sure would not recondition as follows: 
1) A ATV Motorbike battery (20Ah) which was replaced by us in April last year (2010) this battery has been left outside our workshop since then, and has been subjected to harsh winter cold of up to minus 10 degrees centigrade
This battery was completely dead, I put it on a equalizer charger for 1/2 an hour then did the tests as per your Youtube video, things did not look too good to be honest!
I put in a heaped teaspoon worth of Battery Chem in each cell and charged it up using the equalizer charger, left to cool for 24 hours then did the tests again, tested out perfect!
Today I was doing some work at the customers address who owns the ATV this battery came off, after a short conversation with the customer, we swapped the battery with the one I reconditioned, and hell did it turn over and start immediately, better than the battery that was on it!!!
Customer does not believe that battery was on his bike before the current one :)
2) A van belonging to our local petrol station, this van has been parked on their forecourt for 3 years!, they were using it for storage!, battery would only hold charge for about 24 hours, I checked for discharge through the vehicles wiring but found a minimal drain of 0.02A, which I presume would be for the radio and clock!
I reconditioned the battery using Battery Chem, It is now better than brand new, as we had sourced a new battery from our motor factors, and compared the 2 on our discharge tester, the reconditioned battery was reading more CCA than the brand new one!!!!!!
So, as you may have guessed, I'm over the moon with your product, nothing like this exists in the UK, people who I've talked to in the trade think I’m crazy, however I've taken old batteries off these people to recondition to convince them, one trade customer has even marked a battery with a knife to make sure I return the battery he gave me, to make sure I return it, and not a better one
I think I've hit the jackpot with this business and I’m really excited for the future, thanks to your Website and staff
Kindest Regards
Michael Ewan FdSc

Managing Director M W EWAN LTD (UK)


Hi Walt and John,

I wanted to update you on our success reconditioning batteries here in the Heartland. The first 5 months in business we have sold 250 reconditioned batteries using the Battery Chem conditioning treatment! I have been an auto mechanic and motor-sports enthusiast since a kid, and I can't remember ever hearing of rebuild batteries until I found China Depot online and began learning. Its amazing when you tell people that their batteries can be reconditioned. I find that a great majority of customers have no idea about this, and when you tell them they can save 50-75% off of new price, its a done deal!

We just received a grant from the Nebraska recycling association for a enclosed trailer that will allow us to carry more product and to recycle batteries that may otherwise have not been disposed of properly. Our business is mobile only and we work in a two car garage, which keeps our overhead down and gives convenience to our customers.

Thank you for mentoring us into battery reconditioning and being there when questions need answered.

Dustin Reeh
September, 2010


Hi Walt,
I am having real good luck bringing batteries back into service. I am probably bringing back about 65% of the batteries I am trying. I am doing a lot of experimenting at this point and have learned a lot from it. I am sure on this next batch of chemical my percentage will come up. My wife and I sell the reconditioned batteries through our Discount store and they are selling very well. I am putting in my second order and am very pleased with the way things are going. Thank you Walt and John for all your Help and I look forward to doing business with China Depot in the future. 
Tim in Oregon. 

October, 2006







May, 2006



Battery Chem™ Questions and Answers

Q. Can Battery Chem™ work as it say it does?
A. Battery Chem™ works on 70% of the batteries that are able to pass our initial tests as explained in our training manuals and videos. Battery Chem™ will not repair a shorted or totally dead cell. It is mainly for the recharging of sulfated lead acid batteries. Read the training manual and watch the videos on this website.

Q. On average, how long does it extend the battery life?
A. Our testing shows that when our chemical is used in a quality battery it will last from 2 to 5 years. 
We have revived giant forklift batteries that have sat in freezing cold warehouses for three years and were never charged even one time. Battery reconditioning is not an exact science and results often vary. But 70% success is a reliable figure. We are selling literally tons of it here in the USA. It is going to people who recondition batteries by the 5 gallon pail. We have also sold it to members of the military. Our factory in India has also. We have already received certifications. 

Q. How can I try this for myself?
A. You can purchase a sample package of Battery Chem™. There is enough to recondition two automobile batteries. Purchase a sample package on this website.

Q. How long has Battery Chem™ been on the market?
A. We have successfully manufactured and sold Battery Chem™ for over 25 years.

Q. Are there any other products out there like Battery Chem™?
A. We sell a dry mixed chemical compound and I have never seen another product like it. We have tested many liquid products with very bad results. 

Q. Do we need a business license and permit for a Battery Chem™ business?
A. It would depend on your city and its rules and regulations if you need a business license and permit. If you were going to do your business from a garage where people would be coming to drop off batteries, then I would think it is advisable to check with your town/city requirements. 

Q. Are there grants for this type of business?
A. We suggest that you check with your town/city offices. There may be something that you can learn about to help start your business. Battery Chem™ helps keep batteries out of the landfills before their time. You never know until you ask.

Q. If I put in too much Battery Chem™, will it ruin the battery?
A. You can never ruin a battery by putting in more Battery Chem™. Check on this web site for the correct amount for the automobile batteries, and the forklift batteries.

Q. When I recondition a fork lift battery is there anything else I should do after it is finished?
A. Yes, you should always tell the customer about the Monthly Maintenance Agreement that you have. It will not only keep you in front of your customer, but it will also save your customer money because you will be there checking the battery monthly, to make sure that it is working correctly.

Q. What are the advantages of selling the Monthly Maintenance Agreement to my forklift battery customer?
A. Most batteries fail early because of improper service. The people that drive the forklifts just don’t care about them. They do not belong to them, and they also don’t have to pay to replace the batteries. For instance they let the batteries go dry and then they add tap water instead of distilled water. Based on our experiences a battery can last three to four times longer with proper service and Battery Chem
….that’s the reason you should promote your Monthly Maintenance Service to your customer. 

Q. I have heard that over time adding water to the battery weakens the acid. Will adding Battery Chem
stop the need to add acid? 
A. We have found that many service people are sucking out worn out electrolyte and replacing it with fresh acid and then adding Battery Chem
. You have to be careful not to exceed the normal specific gravity reading though. The old acid does wear out.

Q. Does Battery Chem
work on golf cart batteries also?
A. Battery Chem™ is great for golf cart batteries! Each cart, depending on the make and model, have either 4 – 6 batteries per cart, and you would charge a fee for each battery you service. As you can see, this is a very profitable business to be in! A good idea would be to do one cart for them for free, and when they see the great results you get from Battery Chem™, they will hire you to do the rest of their fleet. The batteries in the carts are 6 volt batteries-- they have less cells, but they are larger by volume, so you would use 2 tablespoons per cell.

Q. Do you have some type of guide on how to price golf cart batteries that we recondition?
A. You would set your own price according to what your market will allow in your area. Also look up the cost of replacement batteries to get an idea of what to charge your customer. 

Q. If the battery must always read 12V before its ready to add Battery Chem
, if it doesn’t ready 12Volts, does it mean it can’t be saved or that it’s life can’t be extended?
A. If the voltage is below 12 volts, you can give the battery a 30 minute hi amp charge and then retest the total voltage. Make sure to do a load test also. After you treat the battery, you charge it on high amps until you see all the cells bubbling. That takes 15-20 minutes then, at 2 amp usually overnight. It varies from battery to battery. If you do not have our automatic chargers, you just keep monitoring and load testing the batteries. After a few batteries you get a feel for testing and charging times. 

Q. Once the Battery Chem has been added and charged, how often do you have to add Battery Chem again and re-charge it?
A. Once a year should be fine. If the alternator on the vehicle is working properly, you should not have to charge the battery. The alternator should keep it charged. If a battery goes dead, it can be from a bad alternator, dirty cables, loose connections, or a defective voltage regulator. 

Q. How much Battery Chem
is needed to recondition a battery?
A. 6 Volt Battery = 2 tablespoons of Battery Chem
per cell
Solar Battery = 2 tablespoons of Battery Chem
per cell
12 Volt Battery = 1 tablespoon of Battery Chem
per cell
Forklift Battery = 1 cup of Battery Chem
per cell

Q. How about 18 wheelers? Is Battery Chem
good for them also?
A. Of course! Battery Chem
is effective on all lead acid batteries. There are usually 4 per truck. The batteries are 12 volts in most cases, and it is advisable to put 2 tablespoons per cell instead of one. All the cells should be tested for 2 volts each, before adding chemicals. 

Q. How do you test a fork lift battery?
A. The testing for the forklift battery reconditioning is exactly the same as in the video for the regular 12 volt batteries, except that forklift batteries have 12 cells = 24 volts, 18 cells = 36 volts, and 24 cells = 48 volts. The larger batteries are required because more power is needed to lift the larger loads. 
Each cell should read at least 2.2 volts to 2.5 volts when fully charged. The technician should charge the battery, do the tests, then add the Battery Chem
to each cell. It is best to add 1 cup per cell. Then put the battery back into service, and it will continue to improve with each charging, discharging, and recharging cycle. Charging, discharging and recharging results in a vast improvement in battery performance. You can see a real time video on this website.

Q. Do batteries have to be on a charger while adding water?
A. No.

Q. How can I become a distributor for Battery Chem™? 
A. Give us a call at the office, and we can discuss that with you. The office number is 401-725-8141.

Q. Is there a MSDS report that you can send me?
A. Yes, just contact us at the office and we will email it out to you. 401-725-8141



1. Never buy a sealed battery. Always buy a battery with water filler service caps.

2. Check the water level in your battery every 30 days. Be sure to wear eye, face, and hand protection. Do not make flames, or sparks near a battery.

3. Never add tap water to your battery. Always add distilled water from the Super Market. Do not overfill. Just keep the water level 1/4 inch above the battery plates. Use a flash light to see in the filler ports to view the plates.

4. Be sure to add one tablespoon of Battery Chem™ to each cell in your battery at least once a year. Well maintained batteries can last over 12 years.

5. Clean your battery cables every 6 months. To prevent dangerous sparks and burns from accidental grounding always remove the negative ground cable connector first and replace it last when servicing the battery terminals.

6. Always practice full safety precautions when servicing lead acid batteries



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